our motorhome and enclosed race trailer, which have 120volt, 15 and 20 amp circuits for outlets, small applicants, small electric motors using stranded copper (I'm expecting stranded, but haven't pulled anything apart yet) as well as 12 and 24 volt circuits using stranded copper wire. ![]() a 1000sf shop I just built (120volts, 15 and 20 amp circuits for outlets, lights, and electric motors). I realize they are a little more spendy than wire nuts. all of which should dramatically reduce or even eliminate the potential for weak connections and arcing. I was concerned they were built like the cheap backstabbed outlets, but it looks to me like the conducting surface is substantial and once the lever is locked down the clamping force is significant. The time and cost involved in identifying each cable stripping it, crimping an end ferrule and fastening it with a screw driver becomes ridiculous in comparison to using spring terminals where the wire can be simply pushed in and reliably clamped.I recently watch an online video which covered replacing outlets and the presenter used WAGO Lever Lock Connectors on a 120volt, 15 amp circuit like those in the link below versus using wire nuts.Ī few years ago I bought some WAGO Lever Lock connectors. I come from an industrial controls panel building back ground and it is rare now to see many new control panels specified with screw type terminals. They provide a secure point for cables that can be loomed up with spiral wrap to help protect and add strain relief off the connector or run into the associated cable trunking. These can all be replaced by cage clamp terminals including the in line fuses. I have a winter project to remove all the in line fuses,crimps and chock blocks added by the three previous owners. How do I use a Wago connector Using a Wago connector is simple and straightforward. Wago connectors are known for their ease of use, compact design, and ability to provide a strong electrical connection. Luckily there is still plenty of space on the DIN rails for additional terminals. It enables the secure and reliable connection of wires or cables, eliminating the need for traditional screw terminals. Our 23 year old Beneteau was supplied from new with spring clamp terminals mounted in this way. ![]() Using Din rail mounted spring clamp terminals (wago or any other brand) correctly numbered or marked installed and wired will tidy up most additional cabling. I do t see why you would use them in a new or replacement electrical control panel.Īfter a few years of temporary additions most boats electrical panels start to look like rats nests and get to look pretty unprofessional and the potential for faults is increased. Wago jointing blocks are fine for temporary additional wiring and IMHO far better than crimped,chock block or soldered connections in the short term. My main concern is that they might fail during choppy force 6-7 sail during night somewhere of East would love your input on this one * I can easily inspect cables and replace connectors in case when they would start to corrode * I can use my 3d printer to create custom Wago holders that will help keep them tidy * I can design system in a way that could be easily replaced for traditional blocks anytime ![]() To meet the needs of the rapidly growing off-site. The boat is Sadler 25, so not a lot of cables really. MK Electric works closely with WAGO and we use their connectors within the. I am dreaming about longer cruising: Essex - Shetlands, or even further away, and I would like to have electic that I can trust. I indeed used them for in-season ad-hoc modification and they are amazing.īut I wonder if they are good as long time solution if they will last. time to upgrade for a fool proof wire connections in your electrical projects at home. Obviously, terminal block and busbars are the way to go, but after reading a lot of positive comments regarding Wago connectors. One of my winter jobs is to clean up electricity a little bit.
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